​Let’s review this premium watercolour kit from Splatter and Bloom. Backed by watercolour artist Kate Talcotte, this kit boasts professional level paints and paper, cute themed prints, and online instruction. Is it worth your investment?

​I love a good art kit around here! Art kits are a streamlined and often affordable way to try out a hobby. However, not all art kits are created equal. If you’re a crafty person, you’ve undoubtedly tried an art or craft kit that has left you dissappointed. Either the contents are garbage, or the final product leaves much to be desired.
My hack for success with art and craft kits is to buy from a small business. Small business kit creators really want you to be successful with your kit! They often offer video tutorials, better supplies, and great customer support. The supplier of our kit today, Splatter and Bloom, is a small family-owned business run by my online friend, Kate. You should know that Kate provided me the kit at no charge, but she hasn’t paid me to do this review.

Unboxing the Splatter and Bloom Kit

I received Splatter and Bloom’s “Plant Zen” kit. I’m a plant collector, so these designs really appealed to me. The package arrived a bit scuffed, courtesy of Canada Post, but the contents were perfectly intact. Inside the shipping envelope the kit was in a protective sleeve, and the art materials were tucked safe inside two illustrated cards.

What's Inside?

• 6 Paint Dots: Kate has curated 6 artist-quality watercolour paints for this kit. Each dot is labeled with both the brand and colour, making it easy to repurchase your favorites.
• Line Drawings: The kit includes three beautiful plant-themed line drawings on thick, sturdy Arches paper. Arches paper is famously a favourite among watercolourists.
• Brushes: A sealed pack of three fine-tipped multi-sized brushes is included. Having different brush sizes is great and the fine tips are great for tiny details.

Getting Started
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The package has a QR code you can handily follow to access a video playlist. The playlist includes some short introductory videos and three longer video tutorials that walk you through completing each painting. The introductory videos are definitely worth watching. I was really interested in the portion where Kate creates a colour array with the 6 paint dots. You can really see how many colours are available from mixing the 6 included paints.  
I set up my workspace with a vase of water, a few papertowels, and a plastic placemat as a mixing palette. 

Painting Experience
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First Painting: Geometric Terrarium
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I followed Kate’s tutorial closely, applying her layering techniques to build up shades and tones. I added my touch by filling in some white spaces with a subtle blue wash, giving the terrarium a more cohesive look. The final painting turned out beautifully.

Second Painting: Potted Plant
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This painting taught me new techniques and allowed me to zone in and quiet my mind. The colors were rich and saturated, unlike the chalky finish I’d experienced with cheaper watercolors. The indigo pot, in particular, stood out with its vibrant hue.

Third Painting: Bookcase with Plants

This one was the most challenging due to its intricate details. It took the longest, but I enjoyed focusing on each tiny element. My version ended up moodier than the sample, which I loved. The process was therapeutic, and the final result was stunning.

Bonus Painting: Spooky Plant

Inspired by the kit, I decided to create my own line drawing of a spooky plant to apply what I had learned. After painting my three kit paintings and transitioning to the cheaper watercolour paper I had at home, It was quite obvious why Arches paper is a fan favorite. My self-supplied paper didn’t absorb the paint as nicely. The results were much streaker and less vivid. However, I persevered and the techniques I learned from Kate's tutorials helped me achieve a level of detail and depth I hadn't been able to before.
If you’re interested in painting your own spooky plant, I’ll leave the line drawing as a pdf you can download over on Patreon.

Final Thoughts
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So, is the Splatter and Bloom kit worth it? Absolutely! For the price, you get high-quality materials, excellent tutorials, and a rewarding creative experience.  The supplies are top-notch, from the Arches paper to the professional-grade paints and well-made brushes.Each painting took about two hours, providing six hours of entertainment and three frame-worthy paintings. Splatter and Bloom had lots of great options on a variety of themes. I also love the Witchy Vibes and Fall Harvest kits. You can check out their full range at splatterandbloom.com.

​This is a Pringles can craft idea that you didn’t see coming. We’re going to use the chip can as a base for an animated bird. This project makes use of some craft wood - so check out the craft wood section at the dollar or discount store!

If you’re not familiar with using craft woods like popsicle sticks or small dowels, note that you can carefully cut these items with a craft knife. No saw needed!

You will, however, need a drill. An affordable pin vice can be purchased here if you don’t have access to a power drill. 

I recommend checking out the YouTube video tutorial for this one in addition to working through this article.

You can also check out my other Pringles container craft ideas. I made some fake cakes and a spooky Pringles can tree spirit! 

This Pringles can craft tutorial will show you how to use a chip can and corrugated cardboard to create a spooky, paper mache tree. You could even use the same techniques to make a whimsical tree spirit!

If you’re able, find a taller “party-sized” chip can. I like the proportions of these ones better for trees. If you can’t find one, no worries, just extend the height of a standard chip can with some cardboard.

This project makes use of glue-soaked cloth to create the rippled bark texture. Look for some scraps of a thin, woven (not stretchy) cloth. For this technique to work best, the fabric should be a natural fibre (like cotton).
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You can also check out my other Pringles container craft ideas. I made some fake cakes and a cute little bird automata! ​

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Fake food is having a moment and this Pringles can craft idea is playing right into that trend! Whether it’s food-themed decor and furniture at your local home decor store, or food-themed DIY projects on your social media feed - it feels like fake food art and design is everywhere.

You can hop on this trend by making a set of 3 fake mini cakes with a chip can and some household spackle. I mounted mine on an inexpensive frame and hung them on the wall.

Grab a can of chips and let’s make some fun and kitch food art! The video companion to this article is here.

You can also check out my other Pringles container craft ideas. I made an adorable animated bird automata and a spooky Pringles can tree spirit! 

• Cut out circles from sturdy cardboard to fit the tops and bottoms of the chip can slices.
• Hot glue these cardboard pieces onto the chip can slices to form a solid base and top for each “cake.

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The Kraken is a legendary sea monster of maritime folklore. It's usually described as a giant octopus-like creature with massive tentacles that are used to drag ships to their doom beneath the waves. Let’s make a sculpture of one those iconic tentacles reaching through a porthole. 

This paper mache tutorial will show you how to transform a pool noodle into an octopus or kraken tentacle. I’ll walk you though it step-by-step below. You can also check out the tutorial video here.

You'll need the following tools and supplies to DIY your own pool noodle tentacle craft: 

• pool noodle
• fibreboard wreath form (or something similar) 
• fencing wire
• masking tape
• papermache supplies
• cardboard (or pressboard)
• white glue
• DAS air-dry clay
• painting supplies
• bread knife, craft knife
• painting tools
• drill (optional)
• spoon, comb, kitchen scrubby

STEP 4: Create The Base

• Cut some circles for the base of the sculpture. You can use a couple layers of corrugated cardboard or some pressboard or plywood for this.
• Secure the tentacle to the base using the wires and lots of hot glue.

STEP 5: Paper Mache
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• Apply several layers of paper mache to the sculpture. Cover the noodle and the circular base.
• 4-6 layers of paper mache will give your sculpture enough strength to hold a small lamp.

STEP 6: Apply Paper Clay

• Cover the dried paper mache with a thin layer of paper clay. This will add lots of strength to the finished sculpture.
• Press the clay onto the sculpture with the back of a spoon.
• Use a raking technique with a comb to smooth out bumps in the clay. Smooth out the rake lines with a damp kitchen scrubby.

STEP 7: Add Suction Cups
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• Roll small balls of clay and press the handle of a paintbrush partway into the center.
• With the ball still on the paintbrush, dip it into some glue.
• Press the gluey-ball onto the tentacle and pull out the paintbrush.
• Make the suction cups bigger as you move down the sculpture.

STEP 8: Assemble the Porthole
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• Glue the wreath form to the sculpture.
• Add a backing to hide the wires.
• Flush up the sides and fill any gaps.

STEP 9: Paint and Finish

• Use your favourite paint technique to paint your project.
• A glossy clearcoat can make the project look wet - like the kraken just climbed up from the depths of the ocean!

STEP 10: Attach Hardware and Hang
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• Add a sawtooth hanger or some screws and picture-wire to the back of your sculpture.
• Use weight-appropriate hanging hardware to mount it on the wall. 

Recently I made some DIY Log Bookends and explored 3 different ways of making fake tree bark with common art and craft supplies. This article will summarize the three methods I experimented with. You can also watch the build video on my YouTube channel here.

Our three faux tree bark methods include; the egg carton method, the spackle method, and the air-dry clay method. Scroll down! You'll definitely know how to make fake tree bark for your art or craft projects at the end of this article!

Step 1: Rip Patches of Egg Carton
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• Rip short strips from the flat portions of a pressed cardboard egg carton.
• Use a hot glue gun to apply the strips in loose layers along the intended growth direction of the tree.

Step 2: Cover the Surface
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• Continue to place strips of egg carton until the bark surface is completely covered.

Step 3: Trim the Edges

• Use a sharp pair of scissors or a craft knife to trim the edges, if needed.

Step 4: Paint with Glue and Water (Optional)

• Paint the egg cartos with a generous coat of watered-down glue if you want your bark to have a strong, hard finish.
• When dry, you can paint and finish your project however you'd like. I'd recommend a dry-brush paint finish for an authentic look. You can check out my deep-dive video into the dry-brush paint technique here.

Step 2: Apply Spackle with a Palette Knife

• Using a palette knife or spatula, apply the spackle in short irregular strokes.
• Practice on a paper-towel or toilet paper roll and wipe off any mistakes with a damp cloth.

Step 3: Sand and Paint

• When the spackle is dry, any sharp corners can be removed with some 200 grit sandpaper.
• When using this method, I recommend a good primer or gesso before painting. Spackle is really absorbent and might suck all of the moisture out of your paint.
• Check out this video, which includes  a recipe for a really good DIY primer.

Step 1: Creative a Negative Mold
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• Roll out a slab of air-dry clay and press it firmly into the bark of a real tree.

Step 2: Trim and Dry the Mold
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• Gently peel the clay off of the tree. Back inside, trim off any excess clay.
• Allow the negative mold to dry completely.

Step 3: Prep the Mold and Roll a Slab
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• Use a fluffy brush to apply a bit of cornstarch to the dry mold.
• Roll out another slab of clay.

Step 4: Creative the Positive Impression
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• Press the fresh clay into the mold. I'm using a small wooden pasta roller.
• If you find the clay sticks to the roller, it might be beneficial to dust the slab of clay with cornstarch.

Step 5: Remove the Slab of Clay
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• Gently remove the slab from the mold to reveal the positive impression. It looks just like real tree bark - because it IS real tree bark!

Step 6: Attach and Trim the Clay

• Attach the air-dry clay to your project. If you're using a paper-based (cellulose) clay, a good quality white glue can be used to stick the damp clay to your project.
• Trim the clay to size with a sharp craft knife.

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Step 7: Dry and Paint  the Bark
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• When the clay is dry, it can be finished and painted in any way you'd like.
• If you use paper-clay, it can be painted with watercolours, which gives a really interesting effect!

Now you can FINALLY catch bigfoot walking! Making your own strolling cryptid creature is deceptively easy and really freakin' delightful. 

This papercraft makes use of a simple crankshaft mechanism to animate Bigfoot's big feet. It's not complicated, but animating Biggie's limbs with a simple wire crank is almost as rewarding as an actual sighting of the celebrity skunk-ape himself! 

Print out the template for free below, or, for an ad-free experience, you can purchase the template and instructions for a small fee here. 

You'll need the following tools and supplies​

• Toilet paper roll
• Cardstock
• A scrap of foam board or corrugated cardboard
• Split back fasteners
• Craft knife
• Pushpin, toothpick
• Glue, Hot glue gun
• 20 gauge wire, small pliers, wire cutters

Step 1: Print and Cut

• Print out an un-scaled copy of the template on cardstock. You may need to adjust your printer settings. Check the scale with a ruler. If the 1 cm line on the template measures 1 cm in real life, you're good to go!
• Cut out the pieces carefully with a sharp craft knife.

Step 2: Preparing the Base

• The template comes with a guide for cutting two uprights into the toilet paper roll. If printed correctly, it will wrap around perfectly.
• You can trace the cut-line directly onto the TP roll, or you can trace the shape onto coloured paper and glue it onto the roll as shown. Cut out the exposed card when the glue has dried.

Step 3: Adding Thickness to Bigfoot's body

• Cut a rough eggplant shape out of foam board or cardboard. Glue it to the back of Biggie's torso, ensuring alignment with the base.

Step 4: Poking Holes for Fasteners

• Pre-poke holes into the black dots indicated on the paper pieces using a pushpin. Don't forget the hole on each of the TP roll uprights.
• Use a toothpick to enlarge the holes as needed.

Step 5: Assembling the Legs

• Place a shin piece on top of a foot, aligning the holes. Insert a small split-back fastener.
• Place a thigh piece on top of the shin, aligning the holes. Insert a small split-back fastener.
• Repeat for the second leg.

Step 6: Attaching the Legs and Torso

• Sandwich bigfoot's torso between the thighs of each leg, aligning the holes.
• Insert a large split-back fastener through all three pieces, as shown.

Step 7: Creating the Crankshaft

• Bend a length of wire to create the crankshaft. The template includes a bending guide.
• Bend the wire with a small pair of pliers. Be as accurate to the template as possible.

Step 8: Creating the Suspension Wire

• Bend a length of wire to create the suspension wire. The template includes a bending guide.
• It's not critical to be accurate with this piece, it will likely need some adjustment and bending later.

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​Step 9: Attaching The Suspension Wire to Biggie

• Glue the top of the suspension wire to the back of Bigfoot's torso.
• The top of the loop should sit 4cm up from the base of the torso.

​Step 10: Attaching Bigfoot to the Crankshaft

• Gently thread the holes in Biggie's toes onto the steps in the crankshaft.
• One of Biggie's feet should sit on each of the two steps in the crankshaft. Refer to the labelled crankshaft in Step 7 to locate the steps.

Step 11: Threading the Crankshaft into the Base

• Gently thread the crankshaft into the uprights on the base. I find it easiest to start with the handle of the crank first.
• Insert the opposite end into the hole on the opposite upright. Do this carefully, without bending the wire.

Step 12: Attaching the Suspension Wire to the Base

• Hot glue the free end of the suspension wire inside the toilet paper roll. 
• I bend a small loop in the wire and use a scrap of paper to help with the gluing.

Step 13: Making Adjustments

• When the hot glue has cooled, adjust the paper pieces and suspension wire to get a smooth movement. 
• You might need to tighten or loosen the split-back fasteners.

Step 14: Making Bigfoot Walk

• Congrats, you've completed your cryptid craft!
• Turn that crank and enjoy the sight of bigfoot walking!

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If you give this project a try, it would make my day if you’d share it with me. I’m @JaneSawyerMakes on TikTok, Instagram, Pinterest, Reddit, Threads,  and Twitter (X).

Please share and pin this article!

Store-bought bookends are stupidly expensive for what they are (weights to hold your books upright). In this article, I'll walk you step-by-step through making your own set of whimsical cottage-core bookends out of cardboard. 

This isn't your middle-school paper  mache project!  While even a middle-schooler could do it, we're going to make something really well-crafted and beautiful.  Check out this video or this article for my workflow tips for a less-messy, grown-up approach to paper mache.

Let's jump right in and make some art for your bookshelf! You'll need to start with the template. You can download the pdf file below.  You'll need to print out two copies if you want two bookends.

Detailed instructions on how to assemble the template are below.

Step 1: Glue the Template to Cardboard

Use an old gift card to spread a layer of white glue onto an old cereal box.  Set the print-out into the glue. Use a clean edge of the gift-card to smooth the template into the glue starting at the top left corner and working down to the bottom right. You'll need to do this twice if you want two bookends.

Step 2: Cut-out the Pieces and Fold Where Needed

Use a sharp pair of scissors or a good craft knife to accurately cut out the template pieces. The dashed line between the back and curved front pieces represents a fold. I crease this against ruler as shown.

Step 3: Connect the Pieces

Attach the back to the bottom with a cut-to-size piece of masking tape as indicated on the template pieces. 
Use masking tape to attach side A and side B to the bottom as indicated on the template piece. If you've done it right, it should look like a big mushroom.

Step 4: Fold up the Bottom & Sides

Fold up the bottom and fold in the sides so that the remaining straight edge of the  side pieces can be taped onto the back. Secure both sides well with tape.

Step 5: Tape Down the Curved Front

Bend a curve into the the piece of card labelled curved front. Working inch-by-inch and side-to-side, secure the curved-front down the sides with short strips of masking tape.  If you have any extra cardboard on the front edge, cut it off with scissors. Finally, use short strips of masking tape to close up the front edge.

Step 6: Appy Paper Mache

Cover the assembly with a layer of paper mache. Check out this video or this article to see exactly how I recommend applying paper mache. Both places summarize my tips for the the best paper mache glue recipe,  the best paper mache paper to use, and the best application methods for a strong, smooth finish and a less messy workspace. 

Step 7: Add Weight

Use a sharp craft knife to cut a small hatch in the bookend so you can add some weight. I'm using a bag of decorative sand from the discount store, but anything heavy will work. Gravel, clean kitty litter, marbles, and unused screws or nails would make appropriate weight. Use what you have!

Close up the hatch and secure it with hot glue or a strip of paper mache.

Step 8: Make Bark

Make bark for your DIY bookend with a cardboard egg carton. Rip-up rough strips of egg carton and hot-glue them in random layers running across the curved front of the bookends. This faux bark technique is so easy, but I love how realistic it looks!

Step 9: Add Growth Rings with DIY Texture Paste

Mix some watered-down glue with baking soda to make a DIY texture paste. Paint this onto the side faces of each bookend in a curved pattern that mimics the growth rings of a tree.

Step 10: Paint and Decorate

Paint and decorate your bookend however you'd like. I made some polymer clay amanita mushrooms for mine. You can find a tutorial for those in this article or this video.

If you want to see how I decorated mine, I highly recommend watching the video below, which walks you through the project in step-by-step detail!

Watch the video tutorial HERE!

This polymer clay mushroom tutorial will show you how to use translucent polymer clay to sculpt some lifelike amanita fly agaric mushrooms. You can use these to make polymer clay mushroom lights with a little trick I use to give these hollow stems that can be rigged for LED lighting. 

Added bonus:  You're must less likely to burn your fingers making these mushrooms when compared to making the ever-popular hot-glue mushroom lights.

Materials Needed:​

• Translucent polymer clay ( I used Cernit brand)
• Small amounts of orange, red, and white polymer clay
• Oven-bake polymer clay adhesive
• Aluminum foil
• LED fairy lights (optional, battery operated)
• Sculpting tools
• Circle cookie cutter or craft knife
• Latex makeup sponge (I use dissposable ones from the discount store)
• White acrylic paint and a small paintbrush
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Cotton buds

​Step 1: Creating the Mushroom Stems

• Wrap a sculpting tool tightly in aluminum foil to prevent clay from sticking.
• Roll out a sheet of translucent clay and wrap it around the foil-covered tool, trimming it to size and smoothing the edges.
• Carefully and gently grip the foil and slide out the tool, leaving the clay-wrapped foil intact.
• Set aside the stems for baking.

​Step 2: Crafting the Mushroom Caps

• Mix translucent clay with a bit of orange to achieve a light orange hue for the mushroom caps.
• Use a cookie cutter or craft knife to cut out circular shapes from the clay. You can also roll out a ball and squish it flat for a similar result.
• Shape the circles into domes using a ball stylus or knuckle, embracing imperfections for a natural look.
• Bake the cap and the stem according to the manufacturer's instructions.

​Step 3: Adding Realistic  Details to the Stem

• Once baked, remove the foil from the stems by gently twisting and pulling.
• Roll out a snake of clay, flatten it, and pinch the edges to create a ruffled strip of clay.
• Wrap the strip around the stem, blending in the top the top edge for a seamless finish.
• Use small bits of clay to add lifelike texture and to the stems, smearing them onto the surface. You can see how I do this in detail here. 
• Bake the stems again to set the texture and details.

​Step 4: Assembling the Mushrooms

• Create a small clay "donut" to fit inside the mushroom caps.
• Apply a thin layer of polymer clay adhesive inside the cap. Put a drop right into the center. Insert the stem into the clay donut.
• Blend the edges of the donut into the orange cap. Don't worry if the stems don't look neat.
• Use a tool to create gill-like textures on the underside of the caps.

​Step 5: Adding Color and Finishing Touches

• Mix a few crumbs of red clay with a squirt of polymer clay adhesive to create a  red liquid paste.
• Dab the paste onto the caps, focusing on the top center for a natural gradient.
• Bake the mushrooms to set the color.
• Mix a few crumbs of white clay with clay adhesive to create a chunky paste for texture.
• Apply the paste to the caps to mimic the spots found on real amanita mushrooms.
• Bake the mushrooms one final time to set the textures and colors.

​Step 6: Dry-Brushing and Adding LED Lights

• Dry-brush a bit of white acrylic paint onto the textured areas of the mushrooms. I have a detailed dry-brush painting tutorial here.
• Clean up any mistakes with isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds.
• The wires for the the LED lights can now be inserted into the hollow mushrooms stems.

Now you can use your mushrooms in any project you'd like - from light up mushrooms mirrors or frames, to crowns and the like. Next week I'll be making some whimsical mushroom bookends, so make sure you pop back to check out that project! 

If you give this project a try, it would make my day if you’d share it with me. I’m @JaneSawyerMakes on TikTok, Instagram, Pinterest, Reddit, Threads,  and Twitter (X). Please share and pin this article!

A really popular base layer or primer was popularized by Jeremy of Black Magic Craft who uses matte Mod Podge tinted with black paint. This is a great option for minis and smaller models. ​My personal preference is a more matte, more opaque, thicker recipe .

I mix the paint of my choice with some watered down glue (Mod Podge would work fine here, too) and a scoop of corn starch. The cornstarch makes the mixture very matte, it increases the opacity by acting as a filler, and it increases the “tooth” or grippiness of the base layer.  If you can't find cornstarch where you live, any cooking starch will work.

If you're doing a project with a lot of fine details, you're going to want to put on your primer pretty carefully, making sure you don't fill in the texture with your primer. If your texture is really pronounced, you can really just slap a thick coat onto your project. In either case, you want to make sure you have really good coverage. Do two or three coats if you need it. A good solid base coat is going to make all the difference to the quality in your finish, and you're going to want to make sure it has dried really well before you move on to painting.

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After you've primed with a base-coat and selected your color palette, the actual painting is really easy. I like to have a good supply of paper towels or scrap paper ready. You need to work the paint off your brush every time you pick up color. I do a quick dip into my color of choice, then I use a circular motion to remove a lot of that paint. Now I can use a scrubbing motion to apply the paint onto my piece. 

The trick here is to work up to your final color in layers. This technique allows you to build up a lot of depth in your color application. So even if you're using three colours (two mid-tones and a highlight) you don't have to have your painting done in three steps. You can do a few passes with your darkest mid-tone, get it to where you like, and then move on and do a couple more passes with your lighter mid-tone before you finish with your highlight. Go slow and build up the color gradually.

It's critical that you ensure that each layer is dry before you move on to the next one. In most cases this is almost immediately because you're using so little paint. However, if you find that your colors are getting a little muddy or lifting, hit the project with a hairdryer or walk away for a few minutes so the paint can dry a little better.

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